Smooth Traditional Heel (Toe-Up)

Worked after a gusset, this toe-up heel is modeled after a traditional top-down round heel, but the construction is radically different. Unlike heels with picked up stitches, it’s ridge-less. Yes, this is another “my dad has the world’s most sensitive feet” creation. After six months of tinkering, I finally had a finished product that met with his approval. Another six weeks with the lovely test knitters on Raverly produced the final result.

Round heels have many names, including French Heel and Traditional Heel. I tried and failed to name this toe-up twist many times. I finally turned to Twitter. Thanks to Racherin for helping me name it. Smooth perfectly describes the inside of this heel.This heel is worked across the heel stitches. That is the total sock stitches divided by two minus the stitches adjusted for the gusset on either side. Please follow your pattern’s instructions for making your gusset and then substitute this heel for the one used in your pattern. If you are using one of my patterns, these instructions and photos are used to supplement the pattern.

Notes on Patterned Heels

After turning the heel, you always slip the first and last stitch. Make sure that your stitch pattern accounts for this. For example, a heel worked in *sl1, k1* heel stitch should be worked over an odd number of stitches. If your heel doesn’t have an odd number of stitches, increase 1 stitch using a tight increase, such as a lifted increase, in the center of the heel. After you finish the heel, ssk in the middle to eliminate the increase.

Heel Sole

The two ring stitch markers used here are optional, but they make life much easier. The below assumes you have an odd number of heel stitches and wish to work the heel in heel stitch. It can be worked over an even number of stitches, but you should change the heel pattern. Otherwise, you will have a double row of slipped stitches on one side of your heel.

Tip: Think about your yarn overs as yarn arounds because the yarn is making a full loop around the needle before you k/p the next stitch.

After finishing the gusset, work the sock up to the beginning of the heel stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Knit the heel stitches and turn.

Row 2 (WS): Yarn over, purl 1, place the 1st heel marker, purl the remaining heel stitches, and turn.

Tip: The yarn over is actually a “with the yarn in the back, purl the first stitch”.

Row 3 (RS): Yarn over, knit 1, place the 2nd heel marker, knit to the 1st heel marker, remove the 1st heel marker, and turn.

Tip: The yarn over is actually a “with the yarn in the front, knit the first stitch”.

Row 4 (WS): Yarn over, purl 1, place the 1st heel marker, purl to the 2nd heel marker, remove the 2nd heel marker, and turn.

Option 1: Moon Shaped

Use this option if the recipient has wide feet or squarish heels.

Work rows 3-4 until there are 9 stitches between the 1st heel marker and the 2nd heel marker. Your last row is a purl (WS) row.

Option 2: Egg Shaped

Use this option if the recipient has normal feet.

Work rows 3-4 until there are 5 stitches between the 1st heel marker and the 2nd heel marker. Your last row is a purl (WS) row.

Option 3: True Round

Use this option if the recipient has normal or narrow feet. This is the truest to a traditional top-down heel shape.

Work rows 3-4 until there are 3 stitches between the 1st heel marker and the 2nd heel marker. Your last row is a purl (WS) row.

Turning the Heel

Row 5 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before the 1st heel marker. Slip the stitch next to the marker purl-wise and remove the marker. Transfer the slipped stitch back to the left needle being careful to not twist it. K2tog the returned stitch with the next stitch. *K2tog the yarn over with the stitch to the yarn over’s left, repeating up to the last yarn over.* (Do not work the last yarn over.) Turn.

Row 6 (WS): Slip 1 purl-wise. Purl to 1 stitch before the 2nd heel marker. Slip the stitch next to the marker knit-wise and remove the marker. Slip the next stitch (after the marker) knit-wise. Return the two slipped stitches back to the left needle, keeping the twist caused by the knit-wise slips. Purl the two slipped stitches together through the back loop (p2tog-tbl). *Slip 1 knit-wise, slip 1 knit-wise, slipping the yarn over and the stitch separately. Return the two slipped stitches to the left needle, keeping the twist caused by the knit-wise slips. P2tog-tbl.* Repeat up to the last yarn over. (Do not work the last yarn over.) Turn.

Back of the Heel

Row 7 (RS): *Slip 1 purl-wise, knit 1* up to the last heel stitch (the remaining yarn over). Slip the yarn over knit-wise. Knit 1 from the gusset. Pass over the slipped yarn over. Turn.

Row 8 (WS): Slip 1 purl-wise. Purl up to the last stitch heel stitch (the remaining yarn over). Slip the yarn over knit-wise and return it to the left needle. Purl 2 together (p2tog) the yarn over and 1 stitch from the gusset. Turn.

Row 9 (RS): *Slip 1 purl-wise, knit 1*, repeat this up to the last heel stitch. Slip the last stitch knit-wise. Knit 1 stitch from the gusset. Pass over the slipped stitch. Turn.

Row 10 (WS): Slip 1 purl-wise. Purl up to the last heel stitch. Purl 2 together (p2tog) the last heel stitch and the first gusset stitch. Turn.

Repeat Rows 9-10 until you have consumed all the gusset increases. You should have the same number as stitches as you did before you began the gusset.

Joining the Heel to the Body

1st Round after the Heel: Slip 1 purl-wise and knit across the heel stitches. With the sock heel facing you, you have a left and right side of the sock heel. The left side will not have a hole because of the slip earlier. After the heel, continue working the top of the sock in pattern up to the right side of the heel. (You have the top of your sock on your right needle and the right side of the heel on your left needle.) With your left needle, lift the left side of the stitch two stitches below the stitch on the right needle, moving for back to front. (I think of this as moving from left to right because the needle comes from the side, not the back of the work. Yes, this is like a lifted increase.) Slip the lifted leg knit-wise. Transfer the slipped stitch (the lifted leg) back to the left needle, keeping the twist. K2tog the lifted leg with the first heel stitch. This invisibly closes the hole between the top of the sock and the heel.

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